Memorable day indeed! I think ...

Memorable day indeed! I think quite a bit of both! Thank you to @gerglong for sacrificing his day of surfing to run safety.-I'm sure he did this ten times throughout the day but here's my little story on his commitment to the well-being of the boys. After a heaving avalanche mows me on one of my waves, I undergo the inevitable beating and that of the next 3 or 4 waves in the set, each one seeming to unload on my head with more energy than the last. I surface to find myself tapped of energy and approaching the reef. I'm completely disoriented and realize I'm looking in towards land. I swivel my head around to see GLong waiting on the ski to grab me with a 10 footer about to detonate square on us. I'm thinking holy $#!+ get out of here bro! I'm too slow getting to the sled and at the last second he pins it, blasting through the lip and launching Kenny Powers style out the back. If only I had a GoPro on to capture that intense vision.. I finally surface abs