Anyone who has ever been thumped by a head-high wave knows the sick feeling of dread in your gut when you're fumbling towards the surface, vying for a gasp of fresh air. Now times that feeling by ten. No, scratch that, times it by fifty and you're beginning to understand what a wipeout at Pe'ahi or Nazare or Maverick's feels like. "It's like, get ready for eight rounds with Mike Tyson, 'cause it's coming straight at you," said 2x Pe'ahi Challenge Champ Billy Kemper.
In this Tag Heuer "Don't Crack Under Pressure" feature, the WSL Big Wave Tour's Medical Director, Dr. Terry Farrell, breaks down some of the physiological challenges surfers face when dealing with intense wipeouts, specifically the stress it places on a human's lungs. "You just overcome and adapt," Kemper said.
Back in January 2016, Maui's Aaron Gold paddled himself into perhaps the largest wave ever ridden without vehicle assistance -- a 66ft. behemoth at Jaws, aka Pe'ahi. Not long after that, he nearly drowned surfing at Cloudbreak in Fiji during another huge Pacific swell.
Even big wave surfers like Billy Kemper are forced to face their fears head on in frightening conditions. It's what you do to compose yourself in the moment that makes the difference. - WSL / Mike Neal
The incident is forever crystallized in his mind. "I fell on the first wave, basically got held down by the next wave and then it was like somebody shut the lights off, I blacked out," Gold explained. "Luckily they wound up seeing my board and found me floating unconscious under water, grabbed me and were able to resuscitate me."
How They Survive
WSL
Anyone who has ever been thumped by a head-high wave knows the sick feeling of dread in your gut when you're fumbling towards the surface, vying for a gasp of fresh air. Now times that feeling by ten. No, scratch that, times it by fifty and you're beginning to understand what a wipeout at Pe'ahi or Nazare or Maverick's feels like. "It's like, get ready for eight rounds with Mike Tyson, 'cause it's coming straight at you," said 2x Pe'ahi Challenge Champ Billy Kemper.
In this Tag Heuer "Don't Crack Under Pressure" feature, the WSL Big Wave Tour's Medical Director, Dr. Terry Farrell, breaks down some of the physiological challenges surfers face when dealing with intense wipeouts, specifically the stress it places on a human's lungs. "You just overcome and adapt," Kemper said.
Back in January 2016, Maui's Aaron Gold paddled himself into perhaps the largest wave ever ridden without vehicle assistance -- a 66ft. behemoth at Jaws, aka Pe'ahi. Not long after that, he nearly drowned surfing at Cloudbreak in Fiji during another huge Pacific swell.
Even big wave surfers like Billy Kemper are forced to face their fears head on in frightening conditions. It's what you do to compose yourself in the moment that makes the difference. - WSL / Mike NealThe incident is forever crystallized in his mind. "I fell on the first wave, basically got held down by the next wave and then it was like somebody shut the lights off, I blacked out," Gold explained. "Luckily they wound up seeing my board and found me floating unconscious under water, grabbed me and were able to resuscitate me."
Billy Kemper
Chris Coté breaks down how Maui's Billy Kemper became the most dominant surfer at the heaviest paddle competition, the TUDOR Jaws Big Wave
2023 The Hawaiian Islands Present the Sunset Pro is in the rearview after Shion Crawford and Nora Liotta claimed maiden WSL Qualifying
World-class reef break is back for 2023, Hawaii/Tahiti Nui Men's Qualifying Series conclusion locked in.
Episode 6
Connor O'Leary catches the wave of his life and almost beats Kelly Slater at the Outerknown Tahiti Pro. Wildcard Vahine Fierro shines at
Episode 5
After enjoying an epic free surf at Teahupo'o, the crew gets ready for the start of the Outerknown Tahiti Pro. Jackson Baker and Connor
News
Soup Bowl is back in the spotlight and provided its playful side for early event standouts to make their statements. Hayden Rogers stood
Reigning North America Regional Pro Victor Platenius Finds His Form, 2023 Quarterfinalist Coffey, California Standout Cohn Deliver in
The explosive tendencies of Hayden Rodgers began to surface with a 14.30 heat to total seal the best performance of opening day at Soup
Parker Cohn continues to show his lethality in the jersey, posting an opening day's best 13.57 heat total to move into the Round of 64.
One of Costa Rica's proven, emerging talents Tosh Talbot posted a solid 12.40 to earn a big heat win alongside fellow Costa Rican Tomas