Honoured to land on the cover of this month's @tracksmag Huge thanks to @benbugdenphoto for kicking non stop against a raging Winston sweep for hours and @colbeycheese for his relentless concentration on wet country roads and on the beach. This was a super memorable session where I was a bit freaked by the wave we'd come to surf but after a few toobs I fell in love with the joint and was feeling pretty good and confident in myself. One hour later I tried to surf another Bomby just around the corner, bobbed in the line up for an hour, completely lost and losing confidence fast. Then got Winston's biggest swells on the head, washed all the way in I dragged myself back out the back. Another hour and I caught one, only to straighten out and get steamrolled by the whitewater, copping my board to groin and snout! The ocean is always boss, don't forget it!