Today I finished my #hyperbaricchamber therapy. 40 sessions completed. Feeling so much better. Crazy how much healing this did. Thank you @oxygenheals (this is the clear chamber) I've come a long way, probably about 60% healed. I still have a long way to go. #concussion #tbi
@thorpedo__ and I were everyone's worst nightmare today. Total kooks. Ha ha. I need a helmet and the foam to paddle at the Point today. If I saw myself coming I would tell myself to beat it. Ha! Felt good to ride a swell. Been watching way too many go by this winter. @kook_of_the_day @titansofmavericks #XLS get in where you fit in.
@derekdunfee board flew out of his truck on the freeway today in Aptos. He circled back but someone grabbed it. I would love to see Derek get his board back. DM me if you have it or know and I've got a reward. I doubt whoever has it needs a Mavs gun,ha.
Tune in tonight to listen or watch @guessinggriff who is running @titansofmavericks to discuss the upcoming swells and vision for the comp. He has become a good friend of mine and his dedication to make this the greatest surf comp is unmatched. Links can be found at @offthelipradioshow 7pm Pacific.
Mavericks today I haven't missed a big day there in 10 years. It's a weird feeling to not be out there. But ....... it's also a great feeling to not be out there and wondering if today could be my last. I hope you all come home safe today I will continue the #couchsurfing world tour. Ha!
I jumped in the ocean today for my first surf since the accident. It hurt to paddle, it was hard getting to my feet but it felt so good to be back riding a wave. I rode 4 waves and came in. It will only get better and I will continue to improve. #greatfultolive
Yesterday I got out on my SUP and changed up my rehabilitation felt so good to be out there. Paddled out to the edge of the kelp beds and said thank you for my health and being alive. . Every week I'm getting better. Every week I'm getting stronger.
It has been my goal, since I was laying in my hospital bed, to make it to the @titansofmavericks paddle out. Yesterday I made it to the circle to hold hands with my brothers and to remember the fallen. Here Jeff Clark takes me up the beach and pulled me out @maverickssurfcompany @nic_lamb pulled me in. Thank you
Last night @titansofmavericks opening ceremony I stepped out of the competition this year. I need more time to heal, even if the contest runs in the later months my concussion and body may not be ready. I want to focus on getting better and not having the pressure to be ready or try to compete. The decision is easy when I do it for my family and by stepping down @pitmove steps up . He is an amazing friend to me and all the boys. He embodies the spirit of big wave surfing. If I could have picked my replacement it would be Big Ben. All this has given me peace. Although it will be hard to watch from the sidelines I will be enjoying watching all my brothers charge. Go big and come home!!! @skin_dizzle @nic_lamb @anthonytashnick @small_wave @danilocouto11 @nathanfletcher @ryanaugenstein @zorro_del_mar @guessinggriff @rustylong @colindwyer @travpayne @fleahab
Thank you to my family and friends for all the support and love. Im healing. short walks with family. Taking it day by day. Focused on the long term goal. I'm as lucky as it gets in every way @jenn_jetaime
As news is getting out I wanted to let you know that I'm stable condition and going to be okay. I expect a full recovery. I'm extremely lucky. I'm sorry to share the news this way to my family and friends but as I lay in my hospital bed I need rest and getting back to everyone isn't possible. Every day is a gift. Tell the people around you how much you love them because it's all that matters. I love you @jenn_jetaime Thank you to all my family and friends for all the support. I feel so loved Big wave professional surfer Shawn Dollar injured on Labor Day off the Central Coast of CA.Santa Cruz, CA Renowned professional big wave surfer, Titans of Mavericks competitor and multiple Guinness World Record holder Shawn Dollar of Santa Cruz, CA was injured yesterday surfing large waves off of Californias Central Coast. A strong south swell reportedly produced waves upwards of 25+ feet with unfavorable mixed conditions putting Dollar in a critical scenario that caused him
Kai is one lucky little dude. Last night he won this @firewiresurfboards from @buddylittles at the @santacruzbillabongsurfshop fund raiser for Jack. He is so stoked to have his first board. Thank you @buddylittles
I'm looking forward to tomorrow night. #Repost @buddylittles with @repostapp.#Repost @santacruzbillabongsurfshop One day until the big Billabong Movie Night Benefit for Jack Kennon. We will be playing Bruce Browns The Endless Summer II on August 30th @ 7:30 at Billabong Santa Cruz. Special guest commentary by Robert ( @thewingnut ) Weaver. Surfboard Benefit Raffle. Food and drinks for the whole family. All proceeds will go to Jack Kennon Please contact Billabong Santa Cruz about donations and questions.#supportJackKennon#supportyourlocalsurfers#BillabongSantaCruzSurfShop#TheEndlessSummerII#Wingnut#BillabongMovieNight#BillabongUSA#santacruz#california