Frame grab from @mud_waters filming for @spiritofakasha at an east coast backwater close to the mayhem but just far enough away.. I'm riding a 5'8" single fin shaped by my brother Sage, and based on a 1970 personal shape by Dad called the PJ special.. Long lines and tight lines, that board loves it all! #vallasurfboards
This year the australian open was all about the green room! but seriously thanks for the support legends, was nice to get through some rounds and feel the buzz of winning heats again.. Good luck to @stueykennedy and @ryancallinan Smash it up boys!! Bring on Newcastle!
Enjoying my east coast vacation and especially enjoying progressing through the rounds of the #australianopen Great to see the waves and weather coming to the party and every other man and their chihuahua!
One of the best days of surf on one of the best sand banks on one of the best stretches of coastline with only the best crew around to share it with! @andrewshield @dmshapes #surfstoned #rasheseverywhere
Put a contest rashie on for the first time in a while for the #scootburleighpro yesterday. Felt good to get a heat win and catch up with plenty of salty dogs. Always good to surf burleigh with 3 others even if it is in a stiff north easterly breeze.
The west coast of SA is insanely beautiful and it's oceans full of treasures. I have recently become aware of BP's plans to drill for gas/oil in the bight and off our coastlines. This deeply concerns me, the ocean and stunning coastline is by far the best asset of the west coast and the chance of it being littered with oil rigs would destroy that beauty. The extra traffic would pollute our waters and if there ever was a spill our fisheries destroyed and pristine waters polluted! Residents can go online to fill out a survey and inform BP of what you believe in. Even if you are not a resident get on there and tell them why you love it! http://www.adelaide.edu.au/churp/research/current/gab-bp/ #keepitnatural #fuckoffbp #norigsinthebight
RIP Ricardo Dos Santos. Such an insane tragedy for the surfing world to lose one of the nicest and hard charging humans I ever had the chance to meet. I feel privelaged to have had shared a room with you the last time I stayed in the billabong house at OTW. I'll never forget your huge smile, classic sense of humour and of course the way you charged waves if consequence will never be forgotten!
Just finished two weeks of prawn fishing. It wasn't so bad, oodles of fresh seafood, sensational sunrises and sunsets and saltwater baths daily. Got 3 and a half months off now and have one very different saltwater bath on my mind.. #venusbayprawns
Here it is @dionatkinson I fell off the jetty 6 weeks ago and drowned my old phone so this shot is only a month old but still 10th oldest shot in phone.. Starting a new chapter with my yellow submarine... Keep it going @stueykennedy @zacghughes
My most memorable wave in a contest at JBay 2012.. When the waves are on surfing contests is great, 2,3 or 4 guys pushing each other in perfect surf is epic.. In this heat I remember being completely lost in the beauty of JBay and the endless walls lined up one after another with 2 other guys in the line up.. After this wave I literally laughed the whole way back out the back. It was a damn good time!
"Work hard, live simply and have a deep respect for the ocean" words from Ramon Navarro's father from 180 degrees south. A movie with a good message from @patagoniaaus #livesimply #escapetheratrace #liveanexaminedlife
The last sunrise over sea I'll be seeing for a while. Adios east coast, your rolling green hills, rain forests and pandanus lined beaches have been beautiful, but for now, the dry, vast open spaces of the west is where the heart is...
Sitting in the honey pot, very close to my north coast home! I'm missing these playful beachies with pockets and wedges of gold scattered along a lush green coastline. Andrew Kidman @andrewkidman took this photo a few years back, and ran an article in @surfingworld titled Fun Fun Fun with my brother and I. Fun Fun Fun is a perfect way to describe life surfing on the North Coast!
A couple weeks back @dionatkinson and the team from @surfinglife cruised through my sleepy little hamlet on the north coast and got some sloppy fun little lumps and bumps in the Pacific Ocean... Then @samnorwood edited up a little clip and chucked it on surfinglife.com.au Good times livin' free and easy! #roadtrippin'
Yesterday Dad and I caught up with some of the guys behind @spiritofakasha as they road trip up the east coast in their 76 kombi. I'm pretty honoured to be involved in a film capturing the lifestyle and act of surfing so beautifully. A few late nights watching Morning of The Earth a few years ago really struck a chord with me. The simple lifestyle, living off the land, cross stepping highlines, long clean tracks on boards shaped by themselves. Times have changed but these feelings can still be found everyday. #keepitsimple
Thanks so much to Byron hinterland master shaper and all round legend Simon Jones @morningoftheearthsurfboards for shaping up 2 beautiful single fins.. A 5'10" modernised MP Morning of The Earth board and a 6'2" channel bottom point special! Now c'mon Huey and rain some swell down to get these weapons wet!
Just stopped by Barry Bennett Surfboards factory and recieved a priceless lesson in surf history. Flipping through 2 folders of old shapers surfboard logos from years ago.. I'd have to say shapers in the 60's and 70's had far more intriguing logos than most today. All the logos were printed by the legendary Jim Iliff. Here's a couple from the vaults. #cosmictimescosmiclogos
Australia is full of underground legendary shapers.. Here is a local Nambucca shaper, Tim Rogers with a finished 7'0" single fin he handshaped for myself. Tim's been spent years of his life in Indo getting shacked off his melon and shaping some beautiful, timeless boards. Stoked to have one in the quiver! #handshapesgobetter!