Kitchen tour after dinner at the #FasanoHotel. Crew is busy with #OneDirection this week but has plenty of love for us surfers. Just cooked us up a mean 5 course meal and apparently all of these guys shred! #MuitoObrigado
@jonroseman at outer reef #Cloudbreak in July 2011. Sets reached 30'+ faces at some point each day for 3 days straight on that swell. Absolutely insane. And nobody had inflatables. I'm baffled nobody drowned considering what I saw @nathanfletcher, @bruceirons, @deepwatersurf, @healeywaterops and others doing that year. Thoughts go out to @therealaarongold, the gnarliest charger I know, for pulling thru his (near?) drowning yesterday. And huge props to #MarkHealey, @gerglong, @ryanhipwood, @ukfiji and everyone involved in saving Aaron's life. Uri...you're a legend and hero for somehow jumping off the ski, pulling Aaron up by his leash and getting him out of the impact zone between waves all by yourself! Unbelievable. Good to know everyone is keeping an eye on each other and skilled enough to get it done when the shit hits the fan! Proud and scary day to watch from afar.
Thank you to @worldofmark and @questaircraft for taking me and my crew for a spin and getting me started on my next 50 years of adventures with my first 2.6hrs of flight time under the belt! I know what to do with my retirement fund now! Haha. #Kodiak @outerknown
RabbitKekai...you will be sorely missed by our clan after almost 96 years on this planet. Thank you for the friendship and the many laughs and smiles. A true legend who had something good to say or an inside joke for almost every single person he came in contact with. #LordTallyHoBlears and Rabbit were staples at the #TripleCrown events on the #NorthShore forever. He told me he learned Japanese to hit on the tourist girls in Waikiki as a #BeachBoy. For a time #UncleRabbit was said to be the best surfer on earth. I was lucky enough to share a couple sessions at #Queens and #Canoes with him and #DocPaskowitz together in the early 2000's. One of the last surfers to truly watch the entirety of our surfing lineage, we've been blessed to have guys like Rabbit pass along their history and stoke to untold generations of guys who came after them. #WhatMoreCanISayIWouldntBeHereTodayIfTheOldSchoolDidntPaveTheWay
Just gonna back up that last post with one of my buddy, @jarrodwhite9, part of the #BoatmanNation, on the last swell in Fiji riding a 5'4" @slaterdesigns #Omni quad. And he thinks he needs a 5'1" cause this one was a bit big for him. Kinda gives a different perspective on board sizing. It's more about planing area, rail line and rocker combinations on a wave than length as we traditionally think about it. Glad to see Jarrod shredding again after a nasty shoulder dislocation last year at Cloudbreak. #Ouch : #ScottWiner @tavaruaislandresort
Anyone for a surf at Trestles? Im sure that #BeachedWhale oil should keep the crowds to a minimum coming into summer! Sketchy. Great white sightings sure seemed to coincide with the burying of a whale 15+ years back by Trails. Not saying they weren't around before then but they've been sniffing around the area consistently since then. I wonder if they can tow this thing back out to sea before it completely decays in the rocks. Anybody know?
Wide bowl at #Cloudbreak. 5'4" #Omni epoxy was a touch light and small but man it felt like snowboarding. Glad I landed this cause the things behind it weren't so nice. But almost always better to go and find out than be bummed when you see the empty wave shot later. What a day that was! #7HourSession #MagicCarpetRide @russellhoover. @slaterdesigns
My godson, @jackson_dorian, already imitating dad's #Jaws moves at pumping #Banyans. Big shoes to fill but way ahead of the curve from where Shane was at his age. Maybe he joins the pack at #Aints next winter, @shanedorian? :@hawaii_exposure
I helped develop @purps with @pmtenore and @drpurps to give people a healthy alternative to the highly sugared and caffeinated drinks on the market. Formulated with our #PurpleLifeFormula of six purple #Superfruits and sweetened with coconut water, the #Hydro contains only 2gms of sugar. Check out our site at PURPS.com or ask for it at your local health food retailer. I never talk about it here so just thought I'd throw it out there and say thanks to everyone for the support on our brand.
@brettconnellan was attacked by a shark south of Sydney last week. In case you haven't heard or seen any info, here's a link if you'd like to assist in his recovery. Best of luck in your healing, Brett. When one of our troops goes down it affects all of us so just know you've got a lot of people in your corner pulling for you that you've never even met. Hope to see you back in the water very soon.
Little throwback to #Newcastle with @curfuffle, @thomasvictorcarroll and @markrichardssurfboards...the guys who planted most of the surf seeds in my head as a young man. Guess the year. #IHadHair and a bad #NeckTan going on. Oh...and I surf at the #RipCurlProBellsBeach in about an hour and a half, live on the app. @wsl #ItsOn
Kinda big the other day. I didn't realize there was a ledge outside of the ledge outside the ledge at Waimea. Not sure anyone did. What an absolute pleasure (and terror ) to partake the other day. Thanks again #AikauFamily and everyone involved at #TheEddie. : @itsonrusty #BrockSwell #ShmallKineWhitewatah
Tricky conditions yesterday. Not super approachable on the ledge without flying through the air. This is the difference of being 5-10' deeper. Sorry if I got in your line @granttwigbaker but as you said...we'll probably make the highlights package. #TwigsAMadman #TheEddie #SickFloater : @toddglaser
Well that was radical...What a day! What a swell! Let's see...Major congrats are in order, @john_john_florence, for showing how comfy you are in gnarly situations and calmly winning #TheEddie in the biggest surf ever for an event at #Waimea. So many dudes sending it on giant waves these days and it was as great to watch as to participate for me. Thank you to the #AikauFamily and especially #ClydeAikau for your inspiration and commitment over these years, charging your final event into an age beyond mortal humans. Thank you @brock.little for inspiring this whole generation of chargers before there were jet skis and water patrol and life vests and names for outer reefs and more than just a few people wanting to surf big waves. I hope you all got to see it today or go have a look at the highlights online! Oh, and thanks to the water patrol and lifeguards on call to save our asses and Quiksilver for holding the event and supplying the float vests to keep us safe. #BrockSwell #30FootClo
What a pleasure to hang and talk story with #BuffaloKeaulana during his 40th anniversary contest at #Makaha this past weekend. I also got thrown in a 4-man canoe for a heat and held on to a #Supsquatch for a few waves. I think that was the most stoked I've ever seen a group of people at any event I've ever been to. Thanks everyone for a great day back at the spot I competed at on my first trip to Hawaii in #1984. Hope to see you guys again this weekend, #RussK and Brian.
With my Valentine too busy eating at #Nobu and in a huge bed with comfy pillows in Waikiki to think about much else. It's still Valentine's Day, right? Best beach day ever yesterday and great dinner with friends in town.
Our great friend, #ToddChesser, passed away on this date 19 years ago. We usually pour out a little liquor (Guiness, Todd's favorite), think of funny stories of watching his greatest skill (peeing completely over cars), cry a little or just laugh a lot to commemorate a one-of-a-kind human. But we all manage to connect with @jeanniechesser, Todd's mom and our second mom, to just remember the good old days. It was sweet to check in with Jeannie and really nice that her mom could be with her all the way from Florida today. If you had a chance to meet Todd or watch him surf giant Off-The-Wall by himself or paddle out solo to an outer reef, you know what kind of guy he was, leading the way for all the young guys behind him and putting pressure on the old school chargers to step up their game. Todd once came to our house in Florida and didn't want to arrive without a gift for my brother. So he stopped at a convenience store near our house, walked in and grabbed the beer display i
With a bunch of #MyFavoritePeople on my birthday. Thanks everyone for the wishes. If anyone wants to get me a present just do something nice for someone who needs it! Kalani and Hana...thanks for the insane breakfast!
@whoisjob and I battling for those 'QS points this year. Should we place a side bet, Jamie? First time I've been in the lead on this thing for at least a decade, maybe two. I predict a strong start and slow finish to my QS year. @wsl
My last wave during the #VolcomPipePro...didn't make it but at least I got to have a look. There was also one wave in this final we couldn't figure out how to scratch into (@brentbielmann posted a shot of it) that was as good a wave as you'll ever see. There's always #TheOneThatGotAway that keeps you coming back. What an incredible week and month of waves we just had. The ocean has taken a few days break to reboot and we're back at it with #TheEddie likely running on Wednesday (#Jinx?). Thanks for the @tammymoniz. And I'm happy to give my spot up to @tonymoniz this week if he wants to go charge a few!?
Can you thank a wave for a lifetime of your best memories? What a week/month/winter! Congrats to @bruceirons, @whoisjob, and @makaimcnamara for their results/performances and thanks for letting me sneak one by you guys at the #VolcomPipePro. It was a pleasure to surf with and awesome to watch everyone going on any and everything. #VeryInspired. I'm not sure what we all did in past lives to deserve this one but there's nothing better! #BestWinterEver @leonevesrj
With 4 of my favorite humans right thurr today. And @peterkinglajolla taking the . I pretended I needed him to shoot it but I just didn't want him in the actual photo. Ya know when you do that to certain people but pretend that it's just the way it worked out but then you can't show the photo anywhere in case they see the one you took without them in it? Well...maybe PK won't see this and we can all talk smack about him here. #Sarcasm in case somebody didn't pick up on that. But seriously...
Well that was fun...Sitting here watching closeout sets roll thru after getting sent to the beach trying to paddle out. First time I've had a #WalkOfShame at #Waimea. I think everyone thought the swell was gonna arrive late but it ended up being easily big enough for #TheEddie today. Probably too big on a few sets, actually. Hope everyone stays safe at #Peahi and outer reefs. Lotta energy out there. #25To30FeetCloseoutWaves #CouldntEvenGetOneAir
@walteriooss, @bjorniooss, and @mj_day...scouted locations for your next #SISwimsuitShoot and there's even a perfect left wedge peeling off this one. And it's waaaay warmer than Montauk right about now. #ModernDayPostcards
Thank you, @surfer_magazine! I still can't believe it. Look for some more info coming soon on #OurWave at kswaveco.com. This is my second #CoverShot taken on a #ManMadeWave. Can anyone remember the first one? Which mag/photog/year/location? #Word.
It's amazing how big 'small' Jaws still is. A couple of #Leftovers last night. Thanks to @kai_lenny and his crew for taking me for a little afternoon session. Nice to see just a small pack in the water and have some space to move with just a couple of friends. Frame grab from clip by @johnnydpbp.
He won't let me pay him half the time (unless I have @purps or @outerknown gear) so the best thing I can try and do is try and make him busy. If you need a driver on #Oahu call this man, @modaddy1. Airport runs, circle island, whatever. As long as you can understand his southern twang, this is your dude. He drove the @quiksilver bus forever then figured he'd spend his time in Hawaii surfing and playing golf when he's not driving. #SaveThisNumber
ShoutOut and congrats to my good friend, @khalilrafati, for his recently released autobiography, #IForgotToDie. Going from being the guy on the left (10+ years ago addicted to heroine and cocaine) and becoming the guy on the right (and the owner of @sunlifeorganics) is simply a miracle and proof that life can start over at any time. He's still an addict only now he's addicted to detoxing, health foods, #IcePlunges and far infrared saunas! Let this be the year you get your shit together and become the person you dreamt of as a kid without all the excuses as to why you can't be or never were! We've all lost too many friends to drugs and alcohol (emptiness and insecurity). Nothing inspires me more than people figuring it out for themselves and helping others. And thanks for being a sounding board for me to work thru my own issues, Khalil. #InspireOthers
MerryXmas everyone. I wish I had ten of me I could send all around the world and visit with all my families at once. Life has afforded me far too many great memories and friends and I wish I could show all of that appreciation at once. Have a perfect day!
MarkFoo and #DonnieSolomon both passed away while surfing during this exact hour on this day in 1994 (at #Mavericks) and 1995 (at #WaimeaBay) respectively. What a bizarre occurrence. Donnie told the family he was living with that he was gonna go catch 'one last wave' before flying to CA that afternoon. He could never have known it would be so prophetic. He said the last wave of his life was the #BestWaveOfHisLife. #AMomentOfSilence for two great friends and chargers.
Best caption (funny, smart, mean, dumb, witty, etc. all work) wins the small and simple @gopro #HERO4Session! I'll pick a winner in the next 24 hours and @gopro will contact you and send you out a camera setup! Pretty simple. #GoodLuck #BoaSorte #BuenaSuerte #BonChance : @are.frapwell
There is no substitute for hard work and desire. Natural talent on its own has proven many times to do many great men no good. There is only one way to win a world title each year and this man figured out the riddle ahead of the rest of us this time. There is no one more passionate or applied or willing to go the extra mile and weeks on the road to win. Congratulations on achieving a life goal today, my friend. @adrianodesouza #WorldChamp @wsl 2015
Pipeline doing its best visual impersonation of giant, hollow #JBay yesterday, just a little shorter and a lot hollower. You ready to see this thing wrap up? Good combination of decisions and preparation to everyone (luck) today. Contest starting now on @wsl app or worldsurfleague.com live. #ItsOn #WhosYourDog? #PipeMasters
What a day! Hope you guys watched the action on the @wsl app or website (worldsurfleague.com) from the #PipeMasters today. Some sick conditions and crazy rides. @seabassz and @cocom4debarrelkilla got the best two of the day, maybe even #WOTW. Had a lot of fun in that heat with @mfanno and @john_john_florence also. Check it out tomorrow morning. Gonna be smaller but we'll have a world champ and hopefully I've got a new @gerrylopezsurfboards in my house by day's end! #ItsOn #KeepYourEyeOnTheRights! #AndThenThereWere3
Thank you @surfer_magazine and all the people out there voting for keeping me in the running of the #SurferPoll for so long. My brother and I used to fill these out as little kids and mail them in hoping we would win a trip to Hawaii if we picked the order correctly. Much appreciation for all the good years and congrats to some blonde kid who rigged the votes (that's sarcasm, people )...by simply shredding and being a nice guy! #IfYouAintFirstYoureLast
Shout out to @andre_botha_662 for most likely saving @evangeiselman's life at #Pipeline today when Evan was knocked unconscious and took a 3 wave hold down on a nasty closeout. Give this man a wave or a high five or buy him a beer if you see him around. And thanks to all the other surfers and the @northshorelifeguardassociation for pulling it all together...always keeping an eye out for one another. #AlohaSpirit
@billykemper you're an animal! Congrats, my man. First ever #PeahiChallenge winner in a heavy final lineup! If you didn't watch that you should probably do it now. Some of the heaviest waves ever ridden went down out there today. Wow! WorldSurfLeague.com @wsl
@gerglong you are as gnarly as it gets! #ManLove. Must've learned how to pull into 30 footers in #SanClemente? Watching #BigWave #SurfPorn should be everyone's new hobby. You guys see what @shaunwalsh20 just did though?! #SoHeavy. And #LotsOfHashtags. @wsl worldsurfleague.com
@billykemper you're a monster! How big is this wave?! After only the first heat it's a joke how many crazy things have happened. I know it's Sunday but get out of church, on your computers and pray for these guys. #SoSick! #PeahiChallenge @wsl
If you're not watching the #PeahiChallenge at #Jaws on the either WorldSurfLeague.com or on the @WSL app then don't ever speak to me again! @carlosburle (pictured...yes that's a human) and @markmathewssurf have already had two of the worst wipeouts I've ever seen. It's hard to comprehend how gnarly guys are today charging anything that pops up in front of them. Good luck to all my boys today charging and staying safe! Sorry I couldn't join you (but secretly relieved! Haha). Can't wait to see what goes down. #ItsSeriouslyOn!
Thank you the #AikauFamily, @quiksilver, and all the surfers involved for my invite and inclusion to #TheEddie (#TheQuiksilver) at #WaimeaBay. Apologies for my absence from the opening ceremonies yesterday which is a gathering we all look forward to each year. Also, I'm excited to see the floatation vests Quik and crew has developed and made available to the invitees. It's been 6+ years since the event was last run and we hold our breath each year hoping for swell and conditions to line up properly. There's a lot of talk about #ElNio conditions this year giving us the best opportunity in a long time so let's cross our fingers. #EddieWouldGo. And if the Jaws event runs on Sunday I know about 50+ guys who will go at the drop of a hat! Keep an eye out in case #ItsOn live on Sunday. @wsl #BigWaveBadgeOfHonor
Thank you to Staci (and her niece, Isabele) for joining us on the @tavaruaislandresort trip after winning the draw in our fundraiser. We all had a great trip and they have officially started their surfing careers! They also caught the most fish this week and put all us dudes to shame. Can't wait to be back and do it again. Any suggestions for our @omazeworld trip next year, let me know em! Thanks everyone. @shanedorian @toddglaser @jwpalms
Wanted to show some support and say thanks to the guys at the #BWRAG (Big Wave Risk Assessment Group). These are the guys who are gonna show you how to save your (my) ass if things go bad. In the lead up to winter and tons of guys charging, it's a good idea to get tuned up on your water and lifesaving skills. If you have interest check the website at bwrag.org to start the 3 day summit starting tomorrow, Nov. 30 (or 1.5 day starting Dec. 1). Take the opportunity to have #BrianKeaulana and crew get you prepared for any situation. They are also a non-profit working with kids and schools teaching #CPR, etc. I wish I was in Hawaii for it this week. Thanks for the heads up @deepwatersurf. And tune in to @steepanddeeppipeline to see photos of everyone charging all winter. And also a huge thanks goes out to the @northshorelifeguardassociation for their efforts all year long keeping everyone as safe as possible on the #NorthShore. Can't wait to get my seasons started next week! #SteepA
Ratu Sakiusa Nadruku Lalabalavu (#ChiefDruku) was laid to rest today. The sadness would not be so strong were the memories not so great. Druku showed you can do great things in the world simply by being a good person. He was a humble leader and kind soul, taking everyone's feelings and thoughts into consideration and healing rifts in the local communities no one else could have bridged. The first surfer in Fiji, Druku has effectively impacted everyone who has ever ridden a wave in this country to some degree. Many thousands of people around the world called him a good friend. I'm proud and humbled to have called him one of my best. As @jonroseman so eloquently said at the service today... 'How do you measure the quality of a person's life? If you measure it by the number of smiles you brought to other people's faces, Druku may have been the greatest person to have ever lived'. That's one of the finest things I've ever heard said about anyone. We could al
I meant to post this yesterday but got a little caught up with flights, datelines, and passing out after surfing too much! Please have a read into it and have a #HappyThanksgiving, everyone! Im proud to support #BeHerVoice, a campaign to make a difference with the Kering Foundation and @stellamccartney. Today marks the International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women. On this occasion, four incredibly courageous women broke the silence and share their stories. Learn more on keringfoundation.org #BeHerVoice #WhiteRibbon #KeringFoundation #StellaMcCartney #CondeNastInternational #VAW #IDEVAW
I saw this shot on a friend's feed last night and couldn't believe this wave. Then I realized the print's being auctioned off for a good cause. Read below...Might have to bid for this one myself as I need some wall art and I've had numerous friends afflicted by #ProstateCancer and two very close friends currently dealing with it. #Repost @trentslatterphoto with @repostapp.This fully-framed, one-of-a-kind, A2 420mm X 594mm (16" X 23") image is at the printers and being framed at the moment. If you'd like to own it and raise money for a great cause (@Movember / #ProstateCancer research) then contact me via DM or Facebook. Prostate kills 1 in 38 Australian men and is the second highest cause of death behind only #LungCancer. This disease will most surely affect people in all of our lives so thanks for your support in advance. Proof of donation to new owner will be supplied. @bearzy_thaizy @michaelnovy @cheerwetsuits Edited and Framed by @anjsemark.
LongStory...Finished product from last night. It's funny when shaping how many ideas go through your (my) head. I don't shape often so I want to put all the things I ever think about in one design. It took me probably two hours to template and cut out this thing deciding on dimensions and lines. This was just a throwaway blank Sean (@sslatersurftackle) had in the room so it's nice to have a keepsake from it. Seeing this pic reminds me of all the people who have influenced me over the years, from early days where @matt_kechele shaped for us and coached Sean and me to spending years and years in the shaping room with #AlMerrick learning how to do basic aspects of surfboards. Over the years I've worked with @mcsurfboards and @simonanderson1 and been influenced in design by everyone from #GeorgeGreenough (and Mark and Daniel Thomson- @tomo_surfboards) to #BenAipa, #DickBrewer to @waynerichsurfboards, @markrichardssurfboards to @gerrylopezsurfboards, #PatRawson to #SpyderMu
Kitchen tour after dinner at the #FasanoHotel. Crew is busy with #OneDirection this week but has plenty of love for us surfers. Just cooked us up a mean 5 course meal and apparently all of these guys shred! #MuitoObrigado