Difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations.
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Eddie Vedder, @kellyslater and I are hosting a charity kick off event for the Ohana Festival! Proceeds will benefit the San Onofre Parks Foundation. The event is on Friday August 26, 2016 at the Ritz Carlton in Laguna Niguel, California. The Roastmaster Jeff Ross will be the event host with music by John Doe of X. It's going to be a great night of amazing food, cocktails, music, surprises and a live auction with a lot of great stuff. All proceeds will go to the San Onofre Parks Foundation, a California non-profit that cooperatively works with the California State Parks to develop, preserve and enhance the recreation and experience of California's unique and beautiful coastal parks. Go to luau.theohanafest.com (link is in my bio) for details. Hotel packages are also available. For music festival info go to www.theohanafest.com See you in August!
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The only thing that could be better than a sunrise in the mountains is a sunset over the ocean. Perfect end to a perfect California dream day. Snow Climbing Biking Surfing Bucket list . Photo: @bcolective @clifbarcompany @sherpascinema #californiadreamday #followthesun
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Home stretch. Photo: @bcolective @clifbarcompany @sherpascinema
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If you're only as good as the company you keep, I'd say I did alright alright spending the day with this crew. Summiting right on time with the sunrise this morning. Quick ride down followed by a little climbing, single track and evening surf rounded out our perfect California dream day. Photo: @bcolective @clifbarcompany @jeremyjones @hilareeoneill @mattyhunter @sherpascinema #californiadreamday #followthesun
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Onwards and upwards. Photo: @bcolective @clifbarcompany @sherpascinema #californiadreamday #followthesun
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It's not often you wake up and already know that the day ahead is going to be one you will remember for a very long time. Kicking off the California dream day with some full moon skinning led by @jeremyjones @hilareeoneill @mattyhunter Photo: @bcolective @clifbarcompany #californiadreamday #followthesun
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Overwhelmed and grateful for the many messages of support and congratulations the last few weeks. This last year was one wild ride and undoubtedly the best of my life. There are far too many people to thank for playing an integral part of it (you all know who you are) so I wont even begin to start. I will just say that being this years Big Wave World Champ is a tremendous accomplishment and feels amazing, but far greater than any award or accolade are the experiences had, and memories made with friends and family along the way. Title or not, everyday I wake up feeling like a champ because of all the incredible people Im so fortunate to share this life with. @billabong @peligrosotequila @christensonsurfboards @clifbarcompany @vonzipper @futuresfins
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Trying to articulate what receiving this years Big Wave World Tour trophy at the WSL awards in Australia actually meant was no easy task because to me it represented so much more than the success I found at a few of the events this season. The elation felt had little to do with winning (which I am very proud of no doubt) but rather because it was the first time our discipline of the sport has been recognized right alongside the rest of surfings elite athletes and tours; It was the realization of the dream of one of my heroes, @g.linden who conceptualized the idea of the BWWT almost two decades ago and has since worked tirelessly with his heart and soul to making it a reality; and it was the greatest acknowledgement of the years of dedication so many big wave surfers put forth, traveling around the globe competing, not for prize money or fame, but simply for the love and hope of building a better future for our sport. My heartfelt thanks to @wsl for all their support of the tour, and
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And today...The Eddie goes!!! Humbled and truly grateful to share this special day surfing alongside my heroes, and best friends in honor of a true legend Eddie Aikau. Photo: @zaknoyle
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Pre-dawn at The Bay. Early reports are close-outs every fifteen minutes. Eddie would go!!! amazing photo: @mattp.aul
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Anticipation running high. @christensonsurfboards
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The Eddie take #2 is poised to go off tomorrow morning 8am HST. I'm going out on a limb and saying that Waimea is going to be shining in all its glory from sunrise to sunset tomorrow. Tune in to the @wsl webcast for another monumental day of big wave surfing. @billabong @peligrosotequila @clifbarcompany @vonzipper @christensonsurfboards @futuresfins
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Somewhere along the way some desert dreams came true. Photo: Pat Stacy. @peligrosotequila
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Desert stillness.
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Somewhere down that dusty road.
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We both prefer sitting in the dirt, groom our hair the same way and love tortilla chips... Instant best friends. #chingadera #spiritanimal #separatedatbirth
When you are surrounded by the brightest of friends, apparently you can just put a camera on a log, set the timer, scramble on the rocks and photos like this will happen. @maramilam @kyle_tman @franksolomon
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Ridgeline recharge
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Good times yesterday in the @titansofmavericks contest. Huge thanks to all those who made the event come to life. Photo: @grantellis1 @billabong @peligrosotequila @christensonsurfboards @vonzipper @clifbarcompany
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The evening before the @titansofmavericks big wave competition. Already winning.
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Swell time decisions @christensonsurfboards . Photo: @ryan.moss
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The world's most prestigious big wave event, the Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay has just been given the green light for this Wednesday Feb. 10th. It's going to be an honor and privilege to paddle out again and share some waves with my best friends and more importantly, honor the incredible life and legacy of Eddie.
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Fellow Californians...listen up. Californias coastal protection legacy is under attack via a behind-the-scenes effort to terminate Dr. Charles Lester, the Executive Director of the California Coastal Commission, who has been a diligent coastal champion in protecting our coasts and access to them. There is an attempted coup being done by the most pro-development commissioners with the worst environmental voting records to remove Mr. Lester. If they are successful in this attempt, it would severely weaken the Commissions ability to protect the publics coast and undermine the integrity of the Coastal Program. There is a link in my bio with more information and an "action alert" that you can sign asking the CA Coastal Commission to stand up for the Coastal act and support Lester. There is also a Coastal Commission meeting in Morro Bay, CA on February 10th that you can attend to make your voice in the matter known. This issue is not just about the Executive Director but about p
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Friendships deeper than any ocean swell. That's what it's all about! #cheerstothat @peligrosotequila photo: @freelanceimaging
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Just in case you haven't seen enough footage of Jaws lately, you can watch the Pe'ahi Challenge competion tonight, Sunday the 31st on ESPN2 at 8:00pm PST. Photo: @kc80
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Another beautiful day at Pe'ahi. It wasn't the biggest, it wasn't the heaviest, but I will give it a nomination for one of the most pleasant sessions of the season. I'm sure @benjaminsanchis pictured here on the barrel of the day would more than agree. Photo: @ryan.moss @billabongeurope
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Evening magic tonight at Pe'ahi. This photo makes it look so perfect but today was everything but. Respect to those few who actually made waves today in such challenging conditions. Hope this beautiful photo of the last set of the night by @lemosimages is a premonition of good things to come tomorrow morning!
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Todos Santos Challenge is officially ON for this coming Sunday! Current storm just north of Hawaii has confirmed wind speeds in excess of 70knts, and massive seas of 60ft that are headed straight for the mainland. Going to be another absolutely giant and monumental day of big wave riding you don't want to miss. Go to www.worldsurfleague.com for more updates and to watch the live webcast. Photo: @boonespeed @wsl @billabong @christensonsurfboards @peligrosotequila @vonzipper @futuresfins @hotelcoralmarina #bajaboundinsurance
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Isla de Todos Santos is where I learned to ride big waves and remains to this day one of my all time favorite waves. Yesterday was my first big session out there in almost 5 years. How good it was to be back in the emerald water, swirling boils and majestic A-frame peaks. The Todos Santos challenge competition is currently on stand-by to go off this Sunday in potentially massive surf. Go to worldsurfleague.com for updates. Photo: @wsl @billabong @peligrosotequila @christensonsurfboards @clifbarcompany @futuresfins
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Isla de Todos Santos, Baja California, Norte. I made my first trip here to get a glimpse into the world of big waves when I was 15 years old. 17years later I am just as enchanted by the rugged beauty, adventure, and majestic waves that grace its shores. Photo: @photomurray @peligrosotequila #herestonow #follownopath #ambassador
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@hargrave You may be good at water safety but seriously...how could you forget the selfie stick!!!
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GPS VHF AED Selfie stick??? Photo: @photomurray
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Last week's glassy fun at Pe'ahi. Biggest and best yet to come! Thanks for all the support and laughs. @skullbase_everything photo: BlueWaveMaui @billabong @christensonsurfboards @peligrosotequila @clifbarcompany @vonzipper @futuresfins
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@jamie_mitcho and crew raising the paddle-in bar at Nazare'. Hats off to everyone who was a part of that monumental session proving once again that "impossible" is just an opinion. @nic_lamb @mcnamara_s @whitewaterwilly @andrew_cotty @hugovau @tomloweyo . Photo: @joao.pedro.rocha
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Grateful everyday to wake up and walk this magical world. @dklegend @whereswalla
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If you're anywhere near Southern California, here's one you don't want to miss...after tomorrow night the Lido Theatre in Newport Beach will be shutting down but you had better believe they are going out in style showing The Wave I Ride...a truly inspiring film about @paigealms and her quest to tackle the world's most challenging waves at Pe'ahi (aka Jaws). With live musical performances by Matt Costa, and others, it's sure to be a good one. Link to buy tickets is in my bio...they are selling out fast so don't wait! See ya there! @thewaveiride
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What an amazing couple of weeks of waves...Looks like the North Pacific is shutting down for the holidays and I couldn't be happier. Officially on vacation and celebrating the only way one should. @peligrosotequila #cheerstothat #ambassador
My earliest and fondest memories as a child are road tripping with my family in our 71 Volkswagon bus, camping our way from dusty Baja point breaks to the great Sequoia forests of the Pacific Northwest. I could never put into words how grateful I am to have parents who taught me to respect and appreciate the outdoors, as well as show me the countless ways to recreate amongst them. The connection with nature my parents instilled within me has undoubtedly shaped me into the person I am today, and guided me through the biggest decisions in my life. Unfortunately this day in age, the youth in our society has seemingly lost that connection with the outdoors and with it the invaluable life lessons that only "Mother Nature" can teach. Climbing and swinging in trees is being replaced with swinging Nintendo Wii paddles in front of televisions, staring at radiantly luminous sunsets replaced with staring at luminescent Ipad screens. In my opinion, it's time to change this new
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10'6" @christensonsurfboards
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I have no words that would do justice when describing how amazing the Pe'ahi Challenge was; how grateful I am to everyone who helped bring the event to life, especially those who made sure everyone came home safe; how lucky I feel to be surrounded by surfers/friends/family who support and inspire me to continually push myself to be better both in and out of the water every single day; and how big and terrifying this barrel actually was. Photo: @brentbielmann @billabong @peligrosotequila @christensonsurfboards @clifbarcompany @vonzipper @futuresfins
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Huge congrats to everyone who played a part of making yesterday's Pe'ahi Challenge come to life...especially this madman @billykemper
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Fingers crossed for one of these tomorrow. Buoys are huge, offshore wind is pumping...all the elements are in place for the #Pe'ahi Challenge. Check out www.worldsurfleague to watch the live action. Wishing everyone the very best for of what is sure to be a historic day of big wave surfing. Photo: @zaknoyle @wsl @billabong @chris_christenson73 @peligrosotequila @clifbarcompany
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My favorite part of big wave surfing...the respect, camaraderie and lifelong friendships that are formed both in and out of the water. There's no better reminder of how fortunate we are to be part of such a wonderful ocean family, and to have those friendships than the opening ceremony of the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational. Surrounded here by two of the greatest humans and absolute characters that I know... @deepwatersurf @ian.walsh Wishing everyone the best for an amazing and safe year of big waves. @christensonsurfboards @billabong @vonzipper @clifbarcompany @peligrosotequila
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Pe'ahi Challenge is on this Sunday! Check out worldsurfleague.com for the live webcast of the first ever paddle-in competition at Jaws. It is going to be nothing short of a spectacular, historical day of surfing. Photo: @fred_pompermayer @billabong @christensonsurfboards @peligrosotequila @clifbarcompany @vonzipper
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Golden Friday
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Evening serenity
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Any day now... Photo: @tony_heff #peahi @billabong @christensonsurfboards @peligrosotequila @clifbarcompany @vonzipper
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New 9'6" Eddie board. Hand shaped by @chris_christenson73 and hand painted (all resin) by this legend @tapedoff. @christensonsurfboards Christenson/Moonlightfactory family #chinawantsyourjob
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Powder turns in the morning ---->
to 85 degree beach days with the best of company. Cheers to that California! @peligrosotequila #follownopath #ambassador
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All in a morning's worth of fun. Thanks for the tour @goodmannnnnn @chris_christenson73 @annefloremarxer
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Destroying pristine natural sand dunes in the ocean intertidal zone to replace them with a seawall made out of geotextile bags, tubes and imported sand?!?! Truly saddens me to see the degradation of the beautiful beach ecosytem out in Montauk, NY. Respect to the local community for rallying together to voice their concerns and stop what appears to be an extremely misguided project. Give @letstaukgrams a follow to find out how you can help, and keep up with the latest developments (and what I hope will be a swift end) to this hideous project.
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Save the Waves film festival tonight at the Ocean Institute in Dana Point, CA. Link for ticket details, film fest trailer, and evening program in my bio. Going to be a great evening of live music, food, drinks and incredible films, all in support of a fantastic organization. Hope to see you there! @stwcoalition
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Solitude, not to be confused with loneliness. Photo: @ripitup.fr
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Save the Waves film festival this Sunday Nov. 8th at the Ocean Institute in Dana Point, CA. Link for ticket details, film fest trailer, and evening program in my bio. Going to be a great evening of live music, food, drinks and incredible films, all in support of a fantastic organization. Hope to see you there! @stwcoalition
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Home sweet home.
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Aura of nostalgia
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Standing with a few of of the amazing humans that comprise the @christensonsurfboards /moonlight family. Notably in this photo is Kenny Mann (standing by my right side) who sadly passed away while moon-surfing the other night. Undoubtedly one of the most talented and dedicated in the board building world, but more importantly is that fact that I cannot recall a day stopping by the shop that he wasn't smiling, happy, quirky, and always willing to stop whatever he was busy doing to take a moment and say hi...it's for these reasons he will always remain a legend in my mind. Love and the best vibes to his family, friends, and anyone else who had the wonderful fortune of knowing Kenny.
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Bonjour monde merveilleux
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Fairly happy with the decision to extend my European vacation. This will be the last photo of a backside barrel I will be posting of myself...at least until the next swell. Thanks @benjaminsanchis for the assist. Photo: @xlmag40 @billabong @billabongeurope @christensonsurfboards @peligrosotequila @vonzipper
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There is a wonderful simplicity to black and white that leaves little room for ambivalence. Yesterday was magical...simple as that. Photo: @laurentpujol @billabong @billabongeurope
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@justinedupont33 (pictured here) on one of her countless barrels yesterday in Hossegor. She pretty much put on a tube riding clinic and schooled all of us boys during during one of the most incredible days of waves I have seen in a very long time. Thanks @francoisliets @benjaminsanchis @laurentpujol @justinedupont33 and everyone else for all the laughs, tubes, extra boards, and memories that will last a lifetime. photo: @xlmag40. @billabongeurope @billabongwomenseurope
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To all the individuals and organizations that made the #globalwaveconference the extraordinary success that it was...Thank You!! From sharing classic beach break peaks, to countless presentations and lectures addressing solutions to the most pressing of environmental concerns, the four days spent with you all were some of the most educational and inspirational of my life. Equally grateful for the opportunity to speak and share a bit of my journey..."The greatest achievement doesn't come in the form of awards, accolades, or materialistic possessions but simply living a life following your passions and dreams, challenging yourself to grow and be better every day, all the while doing your part to ensure future generations will have the same opportunities and natural resources to do the same...To be able to look back one day and acknowledge that your positive actions made this world a better place, and that you did your best to leave it a better place. @surfersagainstsewage @surf
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No waves, no worries. I could sit in wondrous awe of this place forever.
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In good company with a few of the most inspirational humans I know @surfrider foundation's inaugural #2coasts1ocean fundraiser in Malibu. Their contributions to our sport of surfing speak for themselves but in my opinion, of equal inspiration is their passion towards protecting our oceans to ensure that all future generations can enjoy them the same way we have. Read more about the event on www.theinertia.com (link in bio) and please go to www.surfrider.org to check out and support the many amazing initiatives, campaigns and programs they are working on around the world. @kellyslater @lairdhamiltonsurf @stridersworld @salmasekela @theinertia
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"If the doors of perception were cleansed, everything would appear to man as it is, infinite". --William Blake--
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Archway de abres
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Angle two of yesterday's coconut tree climb photo. Did I say thirty feet up? I meant to say three. In a world that becomes seemingly more obsessed with what others are doing, just remember that often what you're looking at is a skewed version of reality...a highlight reel of people's best moments. By all means, draw inspiration where you can, but consider that behind every photo there likely exists a world of circumstances you will never know about, and they are often much different than what they "post" to be. photo: @granttwigbaker #threefeetup #instafake #Believehalfofwhatyousee #andnoneofwhatyouhear
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My love for coconuts is greater than my fear of heights. . Photo: @antfoxphoto #30feetup #anythingforacoconut #instafake #dontlookdown
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Thanks to everyone who came out last night to @sustainsurf 's #deepbluedinner at the @theecologycenter Such a beautiful gathering to shed a little more light and discuss the many easy ways we can all get involved and live more ocean and environmentally friendly lives; And encourage all those around us to become more engaged and vocal about those issues that matter to them...what are they? Why are they important? How can others get involved to create more education, awareness and become part of the solution? How can you create change for the better in the world? Utmost gratitude to all who made this gathering possible: @theecologycenter Evan, Kristin & Ecology center family@greensportsalliance@beekeepingbusy @sustainsurf@newbelgium@peligrosotequila@lovesuja@kepnerfarms@wallacejnicholsChris & Dan MalloyPrimal Alchemy CateringSmart Fin
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Still time for one more...
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Dream weaver photo: @cacaneves
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Elevated
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When you suddenly forget about all the hours driving, dusty dead end roads, and tireless hikes in the mid-day sun. Photo: @toddglaser
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Symmetry
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Wandering with intention... pic: @lassenyhaugen @billabong
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Deep South pic: @deheeckeren
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"It's not a luxury but a necessity"
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Hot springs/cold pools
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- Instagram / Greg Long
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Difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations.
Social Photos of Greg Long