Updated Saturday, September 22nd
EVENT WINDOW: September 24-30
Average north-northwest swell at first, with a much more lined-up long-period northwest swell hitting around Wednesday, persisting through Thursday and Friday and dropping during the weekend. Winds are mostly light and variable in the mornings with light perhaps moderate cross or onshores in the afternoons.
Pressure gradients are quite weak over most of the North Atlantic, but a tight area of low pressure is developing between Newfoundland and Greenland. This will maintain strength and move slowly northeast over the next few days, generating a pulse of long-period northwest swell. A disturbance near southwest Ireland is also generating some north swell. High pressure moves in over Britain and Ireland for most of the week, extending its influence over the Iberian Peninsula.
On Monday expect mixed swell and windsea with average-quality surf around three or four feet and moderate cross-offshore winds from the north, picking up to fresh later.
Tuesday sees slightly better swell conditions, with a pulse of north-northwest swell mixed with some residual west. Wave heights around four feet or so, before dropping slowly throughout the day. Winds are light and variable at in the morning picking up to light onshores from the west during the afternoon.
On Wednesday expect small surf at first but then that pulse of long-period swell arrives sometime during the day, perhaps hitting six feet on the sets by afternoon and much more lined-up. Winds will be light and variable in the morning with light cross-shores from the northwest in the afternoon.
The long-period swell continues throughout Thursday and Friday, with some very good conditions and wave heights holding at around four to six feet on the sets. Winds are light and variable or light offshores from the northeast in the mornings, with moderate perhaps fresh cross-shores from the northwest in the afternoons.
Over the weekend, the swell steadily loses size and quality, dropping to three feet or below by Sunday. Winds conditions are good, with no wind or light offshores from the northeast in the mornings and moderate cross-shores from the northwest in the afternoons.
To keep up to date on the swell please check out these tools available on Magicseaweed: