Brace Yourself, Here Comes The Northern Hemisphere Big Wave Season

The Northern Pacific and Northern Atlantic have recently rumbled into life.

Last weekend in Hawaii, Pipeline saw its first swell of the winter. Now this wasn't an "Opening Day Swell" that will go down in history, but with solid six-foot waves (Hawaiian-scale) and light winds, it was still a great start.

Most of the action was focused on Backdoor, with just the odd quality left, and the local pack was amped to get a first taste after the summer lull.

Predictably, it was regular standouts like Jamie O'Brien, Koa Rothman and Nathan Florence who were in the right spot, at the right time.

"There is more early-season swell on the way with a medium-size NW swell on track for later this weekend," said Surfline forecaster Kevin Wallis, providing more good news for Pipe.

"And the potential for a series of swells around late October and early November," he added.

In the North Atlantic, there already looks to be some considerable swell forecast to hit Europe's premier big-wave spots. A low-pressure system currently situated off Newfoundland is expected to deepen, then expand and move south.

Ireland's infamous Mullaghmore Head could feel the first brunt of the swell on Saturday, with a further reinforcement coming through Sunday and Monday.

Further south the same dual-pronged swell could provide Nazare with its first solid days of the season. The beach break has been offering glimpes over the last fortnight, but this long period and northwest direction of the swell looks better for creating those towering tee-pees.

The winds are not ideal, but hopefully light enough to allow the Nazare pack to test their summer fitness regimes and equipment.

Further down the track though, there is also chance of some of the giant waves that we've come to associate with Nazare.

"There's potential for an XL swell over the second half of the week," Wallis says. "That round comes from the mid-latitude storm seeded by the remnants of Epsilon early next week."