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How They Survive
WSL
Anyone who has ever been thumped by a head-high wave knows the sick feeling of dread in your gut when you're fumbling towards the surface, vying for a gasp of fresh air. Now times that feeling by ten. No, scratch that, times it by fifty and you're beginning to understand what a wipeout at Pe'ahi or Nazare or Maverick's feels like. "It's like, get ready for eight rounds with Mike Tyson, 'cause it's coming straight at you," said 2x Pe'ahi Challenge Champ Billy Kemper.
In this Tag Heuer "Don't Crack Under Pressure" feature, the WSL Big Wave Tour's Medical Director, Dr. Terry Farrell, breaks down some of the physiological challenges surfers face when dealing with intense wipeouts, specifically the stress it places on a human's lungs. "You just overcome and adapt," Kemper said.
Back in January 2016, Maui's Aaron Gold paddled himself into perhaps the largest wave ever ridden without vehicle assistance -- a 66ft. behemoth at Jaws, aka Pe'ahi. Not long after that, he nearly drowned surfing at Cloudbreak in Fiji during another huge Pacific swell.
The incident is forever crystallized in his mind. "I fell on the first wave, basically got held down by the next wave and then it was like somebody shut the lights off, I blacked out," Gold explained. "Luckily they wound up seeing my board and found me floating unconscious under water, grabbed me and were able to resuscitate me."
Billy Kemper
Chris Coté breaks down how Maui's Billy Kemper became the most dominant surfer at the heaviest paddle competition, the TUDOR Jaws Big Wave
2023 The Hawaiian Islands Present the Sunset Pro is in the rearview after Shion Crawford and Nora Liotta claimed maiden WSL Qualifying
World-class reef break is back for 2023, Hawaii/Tahiti Nui Men's Qualifying Series conclusion locked in.
Episode 6
Connor O'Leary catches the wave of his life and almost beats Kelly Slater at the Outerknown Tahiti Pro. Wildcard Vahine Fierro shines at
Episode 5
After enjoying an epic free surf at Teahupo'o, the crew gets ready for the start of the Outerknown Tahiti Pro. Jackson Baker and Connor
News
Welcome back to Oz's Wild West and all the open ocean power the Western Australia Margaret River Pro has to offer.
It's time for the world's best to show what they're made of at the Western Australia Margaret River Pro with World Title aspirations and
The 2025 CT Replacement Surfer, Luana Silva, continues to show she isn't letting her opportunity go to waste with the Mid-season Cut
The current World No. 1 Gabriela Bryan earned her first CT victory at Main Break and made sure spectators remembered that with a 15.00 heat
A former CT standout and now wildcard threat, Bronte Macaulay, delivered for her hometown crowd with a blistering backhand attack to